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The story of a lovers' quarter

HAIDHAUSEN – RELAXATION WITH FLAIR

Look forward to one of the most popular beer gardens, one of the most picturesque squares, one of the most village-like streets, one of the most French-inspired corners, and one of the city's trendiest residential areas! The perfect subject for every photographer!
Visit with me this diverse district between Gasteig, Maximiliansanlagen, Wiener Platz and Franzosenviertel.
Take me back to the time when Haidhausen was still frowned upon as the “broken glass district” and learn about the miserable conditions under which the suburban population had to live and work back then.

Impressions

Description:

Somehow, every day in Haidhausen feels like the weekend! This may be due to the cozy atmosphere among the market stalls on Wiener Platz, the many small, colorfully decorated street cafés, or the lovingly restored facades of the former homes of workers and day laborers. Perhaps it's also the Hofbräukeller beer garden, with its dense chestnut trees, that gives us this feeling – beer has long played an important role in Haidhausen. But there's much more to this district! Read more

On this tour, I'd like to take you back to the time when Haidhausen was still a stopgap for those who couldn't possibly afford expensive Munich. People and their extended families crowded into the damp and musty rooms of the former "inns," which were no longer suitable for their social status in the last century and thus fell victim to a massive wave of demolition. Thanks to the neighborhood's residents, only a few were saved and are now, thankfully, protected monuments.

Despite the questionable living conditions, Munich's aristocratic upper class discovered the area as a perfect location for their Versailles-style summer palaces. Although these have not survived, perhaps the then owner, Maria Antonia Rosina von Pfitschenthal, later Baroness von Wippenheim, can help us imagine the luxurious life in the countryside?

So you see, "housing" has always been a big issue in Haidhausen, as it was for the lepers in the Middle Ages and later for the Munich residents around 1900, who finally wanted to fulfill their dream of a modern apartment. All I can say is: "It's great on the outside and terrible on the inside!" Even today, the question of finding the right roof over one's head shapes the streetscape of this district, which, with all its small galleries and shops, its many bars and restaurants, is unfortunately no longer affordable for everyone. Therefore, we will also discuss what the city of Munich is doing to protect residents from luxury renovations and thus halt the advancing gentrification.

Despite all the developments, Haidhausen has managed to retain its charm, which you can experience firsthand on this tour, passing through cultural centers, playing children, and hardworking students. I'd be happy to show you!

The most important things in brief:

Meeting point:
at the main entrance of Gasteig or under the maypole at Wiener Platz

public transport:
Tram 15/25 or all S-Bahn lines at Rosenheimer Platz; U4/U5 Max-Weber-Platz

Duration:
Can be booked as a 2- or 3-hour tour

Distance:
approx. 1.5 – 2 km

"We are a group of men who all have full-time jobs and usually have little time. We thought we'd do something different and, during our search, came across Ms. Ranft's website. We've lived in Munich for a long time, but like many locals, we know more about the history of Paris and Rome than about our hometown. The tour of Heidhausen was eye-opening for us! We had fantastic spring weather, and Ms. Ranft took us on a journey through history. We had a lot of questions, but Ms. Ranft was prepared for everything and gave us a very good impression of the district's development, including demographic changes, shops, squares, and people. We're already looking forward to the next opportunity to travel with Ms. Ranft and get to know new districts.

Peyman Blumstengel from Munich at a meeting with friends, March 2022

"I've taken many tours with Grit so that even as a long-time Munich resident, I still learn something new! I particularly enjoyed the walk through Haidhausen because, with Grit, I discovered so many things that I had overlooked for years in the hustle and bustle of everyday life. I was particularly taken with the small guesthouses with their well-kept gardens. Grit imparts her knowledge with a confident sense of style and historical expertise in a very personable way, so that time flies and you'll gladly return to share your new insights with friends.

Dietmar Hug, formerly a student in Munich and returned here after many years, September 2017

My tips for before and after our tour:

Nothing beats a visit to a beer garden! The Hofbräukeller on Wiener Platz is unbeatable, and if it rains, you can sit inside the quaint pub. Beforehand, however, you can delve deeper into the lives of Haidhausen's residents with a visit to the Üblackerhaus Inn Museum. Or you can simply enjoy a drink in one of the pubs on Preysingstraße or at Bordeauxplatz. If you're planning this tour in winter, you can't miss one of the most beautiful Christmas markets at Weißenburger Platz. Oh, and by the way, Bogenhausen is right next door. Although only a stone's throw away, you feel like you're in another city among all the villas!

Frequently asked questions:

Where is the best place to start this tour?

Either we start together at the Gasteig Cultural Center. This is where the famous Bürgerbräukeller once stood, where Georg Elser carried out his assassination attempt on Adolf Hitler in 1939. The slightly shorter version starts directly at Wiener Platz.

Can you also visit the Church of St. John the Baptist on this tour?

A stop at the church is generally planned, especially because the stained-glass windows are certainly worth seeing. However, the church isn't always accessible or a service is in progress, so I can't guarantee a visit.

Is Kriechbaumhof on the route?

Sure, because it is, after all, one of the best and oldest examples of interior design in Munich – well, almost… but I don’t want to reveal any more than that!
Still questions?

Write to me or just call me:

Grit Ranft

Official tour guide of the state capital Munich
and the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial

phone

+49 151 5254 1981

Request a tour:

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